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PRUNING

Why prune, you ask? Pruning is required for shape and growth. Cutting off old and dead canes rejuvenates your shrub and promotes new growth. It also opens up the shape of the rose bush, aiding in air circulation which is the key to preventing fungal diseases. Pruning should be done in early spring, when growth begins, but after freezing weather is finished. Around here we do this at the end of April, beginning of May.

Use sharp shears which have been cleaned with rubbing alcohol. It is always a good idea to clean shears between each new plant they are used on, to prevent spreading of disease and insects, in case any are present.

Inspect the rose bush. If there are undesirable suckers coming from the roots, dig down to remove them by pulling them off at the root. Suckers are smaller leafed, pale shoots which come from below the graft union. If they are left to grow, they rob food and energy from the rest of the plant, and soon may overcome healthy, productive growth and you will be left with a bush which never blooms.

Prune away all dead, broken or diseased canes. When you cut, if the new cut is not white or green inside, cut lower as this indicates the branch is dead at that point.

Cut away thin or straggly canes. They will not be able to support new growth anyway and will waste plant energy. If canes are crossed or rubbing together, cut the smaller one back. This strengthens remaining canes. There should be at least 5 - 8 healthy canes remaining.

Now that you have removed all unwanted growth, it's time to prune for shape. Cut all healthy canes back to maintain proportions of the bush. Establish a healthy, well-rounded, open shape. Cut each cane back to the nearest, outward-facing bud.

Rub out shoots when more than 2 appear in the same place. Rub out all but the largest will result in a bigger, stronger, healthier bud.

rub out excessive budding

Neglected Roses:

If older bushes have begun to produce fewer blooms and has lost it's well-rounded shape, you will need to prune hard. This will help invigorate the plant. Cut them back to about 12 inches above the ground, and follow regular pruning instructions from that point.

Climbing Roses:

Climbing roses should be pruned back to the height desired, removing only winter damaged and weak canes. This should be the only pruning done in the first year or two. Keep in mind that climbers bloom better on horizontal rather than vertical canes. When they begin to outgrow their trellis or climbing support prune vigorously, cutting back old canes to about 6 feet. Prune ramblers immediately after flowering. Don't worry about buds, just cut anything that sticks out from the general shape of the bush. Feed and water afterwards, and they will come charging back into bloom.

How To Make The Right Cut:

Choose an outward-facing bud to make the rose grow outward and allow open air movement in the center of the bush.

Cut 1/4 inch above the bud at a 45 degree angle, slanted parallel with the bud. A cut too close to the bud will prevent it from growing, too far away and the remaining cane will die.

Use sharp pruning shears, and clean them by wiping the blades with rubbing alcohol between cuts made on different bushes. This prevents carrying disease from one to the other.

where to cut your rose

Maintenance Pruning:

Remove dead flowers by cutting the stem 1/4" above the next new bud. Cut as few leaves as possible as roses need new leaves to manufacture food for flowers. Although many newer hardy shrub roses state that pruning is not necessary to encourage bloom, they too will benefit from removing spent blooms, if you have the time.

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