Planting roses

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Growing Roses (p.5)

ANR-157, Reprinted October 1996. Recommended for Extension use by Dave Williams, Extension Horticulturist, Associate Professor, Horticulture, Auburn University. Former authors and revisers include Bridget Behe, former Extension Horticulturist; Patricia Cobb, Extension Entomologist; Austin Hagan, Extension Plant Pathologist; Kim Sheffer, former Horticulturist; Ron Shumack, Extension Horticulturist; George Stritikus, Extension Agent, and Dave Williams, Extension Horticulturist; all at Auburn University.

Planting Bare-Root Roses

When your plants arrive, remove the wrappings and place the roots in a bucket of warm water. Plants may be left in the water up to 24 hours prior to planting and this will help them begin the process of taking up water. Bushes to be planted should not be left out in the open overnight when freezing weather is expected. The combination of freezing temperatures and drying wind is especially lethal to roses. If planting must be delayed for a few days, place them in a cool, dark area or heel them in by making a trench and covering the roots with sawdust.

Before planting, prune off any damaged stems or roots of bare-root roses. Hybrid teas, floribundas, grandifloras, and climbers should have the tops pruned back to 12 to 15 inches. Approximately one-third of the root system should be pruned off to stimulate new root growth.

Planting

Care taken in planting will be many times rewarded. The best rose plants on the market will give disappointing results if planted improperly. Roses can perform best in clay soil that is slightly acid (pH 5.5 to 6.5). It is important to have a soil test on the rose bed before you prepare it. The recommendations will help you determine what fertilizer to add to get your roses off to a good start.

Poorly drained soils should be avoided, since roses will not survive "wet feet" conditions. Eliminate hardpans by deep tillage or spading. Prepare the bed at least 6 inches deeper than the depth you plant the roses. Plan to plant roses at least 2 feet apart. This will provide access to sunlight and free circulation of air as the roses grow. To prevent spread of disease through poor air movement and impaired sunlight, avoid crowding roses.

If you plant only a few roses, dig individual holes. The holes should be at least 12 inches deep and 18 inches in diameter. If you are planting a large number of roses, prepare the bed by tilling the soil to a 12-inch depth. Then dig the planting holes in the prepared bed.

Two parts soil should be mixed with one part humus (leaf or manure compost, peat moss, pine bark, etc.). Fertilizer and lime should be mixed into the bed according to soil test recommendations. In the absence of a soil test in a previously used garden bed, add 4 pounds of 8-8-8, 12-6-6, or similar complete fertilizer per 100 square feet of bed.

Set plants in the hole on top of a mound made of the soil mix so that the bud union is just above ground level after the soil settles. If you are not sure about the ground level, lay a stick across the hole to determine ground level. Under no circumstances should the roots be twisted or forced into a ball in order to cram them into a small area. Place the soil around the roots, firming the soil by hand, and water the rose thoroughly.

Planting Potted Roses

If potted roses are to be planted, remove the plastic or papier-mache container in such a way as to keep the soil ball intact. Dig a hole twice the diameter of the soil ball. The planting depth should be the same as for bare-root roses. Place soil from the rose bed in the hole around the soil ball. Immediately after planting, water thoroughly to firm the soil around the roots. Do not tamp in the soil after watering the soil ball.

After planting tree roses, drive a sturdy pole into the soil beside the upright trunk and tie the trunk to the pole. This will prevent the trunk from whipping in the wind and loosening the roots.

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